Won ton soup is so familiar to American diners that they may pass it over when visiting Hong Kong. Big mistake. At Mak’s Noodles, a local favorite, the won ton noodle soup is simply flawless. Fuchsia Dunlop visits with Mak himself to learn what makes his soup stand out, and she also discovers the best time of day to try it. For recipes, visit www.ciaprochef.com/WCA6

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