For lovers of pork, there is no greater Puerto Rican treat than a trip into the hills for a sampling of lechon, or roast suckling pig. Apa Ramos, owner of Lechonera La Ranchera, in the hills above San Juan at Agua Buena, Guaynabo, shows us the process. Pork here is sold with sides like pigeon peas and rice, morcilla, green bananas in vinaigrette, cassava in a garlicky sauce called mojo, or a good potato salad. For recipes, visit www.ciaprochef.com/WCA7

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