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From pizza fritta to pizza al forno, baked in an oven so hot the pie cooks in one minute—that’s the objective at La Notizia, Enzo Coccia’s popular Neapolitan pizzeria. Like many of his colleagues, Chef Coccia believes in a long, slow fermentation for the dough and uncompromising quality in the toppings. But as you’ll hear from this third-generation pizzaiolo, great pizza is really not about the recipes.

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