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In Fucina, pizza is accorded restaurant-caliber treatment. Chef-Owner Edoardo Papa alters his toppings to reflect the seasons, and he is as choosy about ingredients as any three-star chef. But this acclaimed pizzaiolo would say his real talent is knowing when the dough has proofed enough and is ready to stretch. He calls that the “maturation moment,” and if he misses it, the pizza won’t be a peak experience.

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